Bring
a large pot of water to a boil. Add noodles and cook until barely
tender, about 5 minutes. They should retain a hint of chewiness. Drain,
rinse with cold water, drain again and toss with a splash of sesame oil.
Step
In
a medium bowl, whisk together the remaining 2 tablespoons sesame oil,
the soy sauce, rice vinegar, sesame paste, peanut butter, sugar, ginger,
garlic and chili-garlic paste.
Step
Pour the sauce over the noodles and toss. Transfer to a serving bowl, and garnish with cucumber and peanuts.
The
Chinese sesame paste called for here is made of toasted sesame seeds;
it is not the same as tahini, the Middle Eastern paste made of plain,
untoasted sesame. But you could use tahini in a pinch. You need only add
a little toasted sesame oil to compensate for flavor, and perhaps some
peanut butter to keep the sauce emulsified.
Noodles
dressed with sesame are popular in many parts of China, but this
particular style, made with peanut butter and served cold, became a
Chinese-American staple in the United States in the 1970s. The family of
Shorty Tang — an ambitious restaurateur who emigrated from Sichuan to
Taipei to New York — firmly believes that he invented the dish and still
serve it at Hwa Yuan, the restaurant he opened in 1967 in Manhattan’s
Chinatown. They have never divulged the exact recipe; this is our own
lush but refreshing version. —Sam Sifton
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