Though kale probably originated in the dry heat of
the Mediterranean, it became a fixture in the kitchens of northern
Europe. In Scotland, according to the author Elizabeth Schneider, "to
come to cail," was an invitation to come to dinner. Recent devotees
extol the virtues of undercooked kale. But having spent five winters in
Provincetown, Mass., where the Portuguese eat their kale with sausage or
fish, I grew to like mine similar to theirs: slow-simmered in bacon or
sausage fat, or braised in chicken broth until it's soft and sweet.
Place the sausage in a large pot over medium-low
heat and cook until it begins to render its fat, about 2 minutes. Add
the onion and cook for 2 minutes. Add the garlic and potatoes and cook
for 2 minutes. Add the kale and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes
longer.
Stir in the chicken broth, vinegar and salt. Bring
to a boil, reduce heat, cover and simmer for 1 hour. Season with pepper.
Stir in the tomatoes and cook, uncovered, for 15 minutes. Divide among 4
bowls and serve.
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